Jan 19, 2010

We've all found ourselves transported to the galaxy of fairytale bliss and A-list budgets by some Vera Wang wedding gown extravaganza gracing the pages of Vogue. A name less familiar - but no less spectacular - to the world of princess-clad celebrities is Jeremy Brandrick.
Mulberry's former creative director has gone bridal. Trained at the prestigious Central St. Martin's College in London, alongside the likes of Alexander McQueen and Dior's John Galliano, Brandrick has designed haute couture collections for Dolce & Gabbana and Nicole Farhi. Today, however, it's his own line that drives him. Bringing his love for luxurious fabrics and intricate detailing with him from London and Milan, Brandrick has taken his international fashion sensibilities and applied them to his passion for bridal wear. Launched just last year, Brandrick's collection of bridal gowns and special occasion wear focus on proportion and silhouette, reflecting his modern high-fashion aesthetic. And although Brandrick may still, relatively speaking, be a newcomer on the bridal wear scene, this European export knows his craft - to which an overwhelmingly positive response from press and industry leaders is testimony. We sat down with Jeremy Brandrick to learn more about his latest venture, design talents, and to get the run-down of what a bride should consider when selecting the most meaningful dress of her life. (Ladies, take note, this is one designer to watch.)
How did you get started designing bridal couture? Tell us how you got here.
I love the romance and beauty of a wedding gown. There is no other dress as special to a woman, and it's an exciting thing to be a part of.
I started my career as an undergrad in the bridal market for a company called Paplillon De Soie (Silk Butterfly) in Nottingham, England, seventeen years ago. Paplillon De Soie was a boutique company with five employees, and together we produced a dress and a half a week. Dresses retailed between $7,000 - 10,000 and were carried at stores like Harrods and Liberty in London. (However, I once worked on a gown for a "Texan oil bride," who wore gorgeous silk damask fabric with intricate beadwork, which went for over $30,000!)
I actually landed the job by chance. My partner at the time knew the owner of the company and mentioned I was studying fashion. Before I knew it, I was responsible for cutting all the dresses as well as hand beading and hand sewing fabric.
What do you bring to the industry that sets you apart from other designers?
I bring a huge wealth of knowledge to this industry. As I mentioned, I began my career in the bridal industry and then moved to Milan, Italy, where I worked for Dolce & Gabbana. At that time, the brand was still growing and I had the opportunity to design for both women's and men's. I loved getting 'down and dirty' with the creative process, and I found that sewing, beading, cutting and designing with my bare hands was much more fun compared to sitting in an ivory tower drinking champagne. (Though, I must admit, I do enjoy champagne too!)
Another thing that sets me apart is that I truly enjoy meeting new
people, especially brides. Each one has a different story, and it's
exciting to hear about the expectations they have for their wedding
dresses. I hope to bring vitality and uniqueness to the industry with
gowns [that are] unique to each bride.
What is your specialty/signature design trademark?
The craftsmanship of the gowns is definitely a trademark of Jeremy Brandrick. While I produce a collection of gowns seasonally, I developed the line to specially offer unique custom-made couture wedding gowns. I will work with the bride to determine her personal style using my collection as a springboard or a showcase of ideas. I'll draw inspiration from my clients, but in the end, my job is to guide her with my designs and vision.
Who/what are your design influences?
[My] design influences are global. I pay close attention to what's happening in fashion, as concepts from [the] runways eventually show up in bridal couture. Bridal, of course, has its own trends, so there is so much to pull from. When I really want to have fun and soak up some glamour, I look towards fashion houses like Balenciaga, Dior, Valentino and YSL. I am inspired by vintage style, particularly from the past two decades when fashion maintained cachet and exclusivity, and it was distinctively separate from ready-to-wear. Fashion should be unique, especially as it relates to a wedding dress. That [uniqueness] can come from accessories, a colored sash, detailed beading, and so on.
Photography and architecture also continually inspire my designs. Photography teaches me about light and composition, which plays a key role in fashion design. Many fashion designers set out to become architects (including me) and I think architectural structures can easily relate to a wedding dress design. Think of the Chrysler Building as a shimmering beaded bodice above a column dress, or the arcs and columns in Grand Central Station forming pleats and swathes.
What should a bride be thinking about when selecting her wedding dress?
Have fun and enjoy the time you spend choosing your wedding dress - I think that is the most important piece of advice I can offer. This is a dress that is worn on one of the most special days of a woman's life, and shopping for the gown should be a part of the overall wedding experience. If you're not happy, then move on until you are.
Brides should have a proper, thorough consultation with salespeople and designers to discuss exactly what they want prior to trying on the first dress. Salespeople and designers should provide you with an enjoyable, pleasant experience and no one should feel rushed or uncomfortable when deciding on a gown. Having said that, if you are comfortable with the salesperson or designer, I suggest listening to their recommendations. They may have a fantastic styling idea that you may not have thought of.
Don't spend the day pulling up your dress. Make sure it fits, or, if you are not used to wearing strapless, then don't start on your wedding day.
Finally, do you remember when Princess Diana exited the carriage the day she married Prince Charles? Her dress was creased to heaven and back, so perhaps do a little scrunch test yourself!
Why should a bride consider going custom? Does haute bridal couture warrant its haute price tag?
I think custom really does enable your every wish and dream to be fulfilled. However, designing a dress yourself, and then finding a dressmaker, does not qualify as custom. Every custom designer has his or her own specific style and clients choose to work with them based on that style. Brides should work with designers through consultations, fittings, etc. to create a dress that is unique to her.
When buying an off-the-rack or se mi-bespoke design, you are often subjected to high alteration charges. This usually negates the price tag. Those alteration charges are typically included in the cost of a custom design.
The cost of a Jeremy Brandrick gown is based on fabrics and the amount of handwork that goes into the design. For example, if you are buying fabric at ninety-five dollars a yard and a dress needs ten yards, then the cost quickly adds up. Pair that with 150 meters of tulle used for an underskirt that takes forty hours to make at thirty-five dollars an hour. You can begin to understand the complexities of cost in this arena. That's not to say that custom always has to be overly expensive. When choosing custom, you're buying intricate details and workmanship, which is worth it in the end!
What looks/cuts/fabrics/materials do you love right now?
There is a lot of 'movement' in bridal at the moment. By that, I mean, ethereal designs that drape and flow, and are both pretty and feminine even if they are made from semi-structured fabric. I also love the ornamentation possibilities. When I first started, it was all about dropped 'V' bodices with beading in the middle panel and puffed sleeves!
I love working with Duchess satin and lace. I've used lace in an A-line style, and then there's a sheath with a full train that was developed from a previous bespoke design. I am also looking into deep luscious pleats with dropped waists.
Which styles do you recommend for different body shapes? How should a bride determine what type of gown is the most flattering for her shape and stature?
Every woman is different, so it's hard to define specific "guidelines." Full-figured women typically stay away from masses of tulle and/or bows, horizontals and ruffles. Women with longer torsos and shorter legs need to move the eye above the waist. If you are blessed with wider hips, A-line is a good option to accentuate the volume without making you look too "Disney". Only very slim women should wear mermaid styles.
There are a multitude of rules out there, and when you factor in how different fabrics look on different figures, it can become a battle of body shape versus design versus fabric. Choice and direction are the key words, though, when it comes to approaching style. Not every thin girl wants a column dress. Not every petite girl wants to look taller.
When it comes to shades of white, do certain shades work better with certain skin tones?
Absolutely! I am working on establishing a library of fabrics in a variety of shades. I'll use them during consultations to determine the proper shade of white and fabric direction. It can be tricky as skin tones can fluctuate, just like weight. All designers should have light lamps too. An optic white is going to look a lot different in the Caribbean than it does in the Hamptons.
What is the number one pitfall you would warn brides against when going dress shopping?
This is tricky, but I think it is important for brides to stay within their budget. They should be aware of extra costs, like alterations. Also, once you have chosen the dress, STOP LOOKING or you will drive yourself insane. Finally, remember the wedding day is about you (and, of course, your groom), so your dress should reflect your personal style, not your mother's or mother-in-law's, for example.
What are your final tips and thoughts on finding the perfect wedding dress?
Do your research before you begin shopping and talk to other brides about their experience. Be comfortable with the designer or store, and, again, enjoy yourself!
Elle Fure